Ngaba kunokwenzeka ukuba intlekisa iphelelwe lilanga? Lo ngomnye wemibuzo ephakame emva kwengqokelela kaBalenciaga yangaphambi koKwindla ka-2021, eyaphuma njengencwadi yokujonga yedijithali kule mpelaveki. Iboniswe ngokuchasene nemvelaphi yeempawu ezidumileyo, le ngqokelela yayiludibaniso lweziseko zezemidlalo kunye neempawu ezinomtsalane zomlawuli wokudala uDemna Gvasalia ezifana neeglasi zelanga zekamva, iibhegi zesandla ezihonjiswe zizilwanyana ezirhubuluzayo, kunye neengubo ezithambileyo. Nangona kunjalo, nangona iireferensi ziye zaba yinto eqhelekileyo kubayili namhlanje, into eyayisandula ukuba ntsha kwaye inomdla ngoku ivakala ngathi igqithisile.
Ukususela oko uGvasalia waqala ukubonisa kwifeshini yaseFransi ngo-2016, iBalenciaga ayaziwa kangako ngobuhle bayo bokuqala kodwa ngakumbi ngesimo sayo sokuhlekisa kunye nokuzonwabisa okungaqhelekanga. Enyanisweni, nangona yonke ingqokelela ibona iziqwenga zobufazi ezifana neengubo ezinamagxa aqinileyo kunye namacici e-statement agqithisileyo, kule mihla, igama elithi "Balenciaga" lenza umntu acinge ngezithuba ze-Instagram ze-brand ngaphezu kwayo nayiphi na into. Ixesha likaGvasalia laqala ngotshintsho olukhulu kwimidiya yoluntu, kwaye ukusukela oko le brand ithumele ngokungqongqo iifoto ezingaqondakaliyo nezingabonakaliyo, ngaphandle kwamagama angaphantsi: inja encinci enxibe iiglasi zelanga ezinkulu, ibhegi yeHourglass ebomvu ebhalwe nge-croc efakwe phakathi kwemilenze ene-tattoo, itswele elinobuso be-anime obudwetshwe ngendandatho ye-crystal. Uphinde wavuselela izitayile ezifana nebhegi ye-"City" ye-brand, kwaye uhlala elungisa iziqwenga zeBalenciaga ngamafonti kunye nemibala efana neye-Ikea, i-Uber Eats, kunye nephulo likaBernie Sanders lokuba ngumongameli.
Ingqokelela yangaphambi koKwindla, ebekwe kwifoto-shop ngokuchasene neendawo zehlabathi ngomoya wokuhamba, yabona uninzi lweempawu zikaGvasalia azithathele kwiVetements: i-silhouettes ezinkulu, umxube wezemidlalo kunye nempahla yesiqhelo, kunye neebhatyi ezinkulu kunye neengubo. Nangona kunjalo, akukho nanye kuzo eyabonakala inentlantsi efanayo eyaqalisa ixesha lakhe lokuhlala eBalenciaga. Ezinye iireferensi zenkcubeko ye-pop zeza ngohlobo lwee-t-shirts kunye nee-hoodies zikaHulk, kunye nelogo efana ne-GAP ebhalwe njenge-"GAY." UGvasalia uphinde wabuyela kwiitropes eziqhelekileyo ezifana nophawu lwakhe "BB", olusasazeke kwii-windbreakers kunye neekepusi ze-baseball. Uninzi lweengxowa, iilokhwe, kunye neengubo zangaphandle zazibonakala ngathi zongezelelo kubuhle bakhe obuhlaseliweyo, kwaye nangona olunye uhlaziyo lweza ngohlobo lwezinto ezizinzileyo, akukho nanye kwezi zinto ngokwayo eyagqama kakhulu. Nangona izinto zakutshanje zikaBalenciaga ziye zaguquka zaba zezona zingaqhelekanga kunezinesitayile—njengezihlangu ezinxibe iinzwane, izihlangu ezixhonyiweyo, kunye neempahla ezithengisa ukutya kwezinja—kwaye zihlala zithengiswa, kubonakala ngathi “into entle kakhulu” inokwenzeka.
Oku kusenokuba kungenxa yexesha: emva kwayo yonke loo nto, ingqokelela edibeneyo ye-“Aria” yophawu kunye neGucci—abaninzi abayibiza ngokuba yintsebenziswano yeshumi leminyaka—yaqala kwiintsuku ezidlulileyo ngenxa yobuhle obugqithisileyo. Kodwa umoya wobukrelekrele nowobukrelekrele abaninzi abaye bawulindela kuBalenciaga awuzange ubonakale ukho ngokupheleleyo kwingqokelela yamva nje kaGvasalia. Uninzi lwezi mpahla zahlukile zazibonakala zimbi kakhulu kunokuba zintle, lo mbhali ezibuza ukuba ingakanani ijini exinezelekileyo enemilenze ethe tye okanye ibhulukhwe engenamilo eza kubiza xa zikufutshane nendlu yaseFransi endaweni yeHanes okanye ivenkile yakudala. Izinto ezifana neelokhwe zeentyantyambo eziphefumlelweyo zeminyaka yoo-80, izihlangu ezinde ezithe tyaba, kunye nobucwebe obugqithisileyo zaziluncedo kancinci, kodwa ngokubanzi azizange zibonakale zintsha. Ngokubanzi, ingqokelela yayingabonakali ngathi iyayishukumisa inaliti, ngokwayo; kwakungekho nto imangalisayo okanye eyoyikisayo uGvasalia awayengazange ayibonise kwiingqokelela zangaphambili, kwaye kwakungacaci ukuba iimpahla “zinokuzimela” ngaphandle kokuba igama leleyibhile yodidi oluphezulu linamathele.
Uluntu lubonakala luhlukene phakathi ngempahla yamva nje kaBalenciaga. Nangona umhlalutyi wefashoni uJosé Criales-Unzueta ekhankanye i-Gap ecacileyo yenkampani, akazange anconywe kakhulu ngengqokelela. “Andisavuyiswa yiBalenciaga. Oko ekuqaleni kwakubonakala kuphazamisa kwaye kunzima ngoku kubonakala ngathi kulindeleke kwaye kuyinto engafunekiyo,” utshilo uCriales-Unzueta kwi-Instagram Stories, wongeza ngendlela impahla “engayonwabisiyo okanye engathandekiyo.” Umbhali weYouTube kunye nomgxeki wefashoni uLuke Meagher (AKA Haute le Mode) ngokufanayo bavumelana kwi-Instagram ukuba le ngqokelela “yayingasondeli nakancinci kwinguqu,” nangona ephawule indlela uthando lukaCristobal Balenciaga ngevolumu olwalukho ngayo.
Abaphulaphuli nabo abazange bavuyiswe. Abanye bavakalise uluvo lwabo ngeebhegi ezithile kunye neebhutsi kwi-Instagram nakwi-Twitter, kodwa ngokubanzi bacacisa indlela ingqokelela ebangathandeki ngayo. “Nikhethe ezinye zezona mbonakalo zintle, kodwa andazi ukuba ndicinge ntoni ngengqokelela yonke,” omnye umsebenzisi ubhale watsho kwisithuba sikaMeagher, ngelixa omnye ephalaze phantsi kwesithuba sikaCriales-Unzueta se-Instagram: “Ukubhekisela nokucaphula ngokuphindaphindiweyo ngaphandle kokubonisa iimpahla kunye neemveliso ezinobuchule, ezinomdla nezintsha akusasileli kwaye akusasileli kangangexesha elithile ngoku.”
Naphi na apho uBalenciaga aya khona kwixesha elizayo, kuyacaca ukuba ingqokelela yangaphambi koKwindla iya kufuneka ijongane nophononongo oluxubeneyo lwasekuqaleni kunye nomnqweno omkhulu woluntu wempahla ngentliziyo xa ifika evenkileni kule hlobo.
Bhalisela incwadana yethu yeendaba kwaye usilandele kuFacebook naku-Instagram ukuze uhlale usesikhathini ngazo zonke iindaba zamva nje zefashoni kunye nentlebendwane emnandi kushishino.
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Ixesha lokuthumela: Meyi-17-2021